Musk Orchids in Gloucestershire 26th June 2024

Another summer's day and one predicted to be the hottest so far this year, not that there have been many to compete with. I took a notion to take full advantage and go to Cleeve Common which lies some 330m above sea level and is part of the  limestone escarpment that forms the northern edge of The Cotswolds. From here you can look west, down and over to Cheltenham in the distance  with its famous racecourse and then beyond to the River Severn and even into Wales.

The reason for my visit was to see some Musk Orchids that grow beside a narrow track that runs aslant the western face of the hill, an area of limestone grassland designated as an SSSI. Musk Orchids are designated as Nationally Scarce, mainly due to loss of suitable habitat such as the ploughing up of old grassland, and scrub encroachment due to the reduction of sheep grazing. Their habitat preference is very precise in that they will only grow in short turf on chalk or limestone, favouring the contour hugging terraces formed by sheep trails on steep and sunny slopes.They are restricted to southern and south eastern England and The Cotswolds mark the northernmost extent of their range

The last time I saw Musk Orchids was a very long time ago when I lived in Sussex and on behalf of Sussex Wildlife Trust acted as Honorary Warden  of Ditchling Beacon Nature Reserve near Brighton. That was some thirty plus years ago. I found many growing in the old chalk pits, their other favoured habitat, that lay beside the infamous road that rises steeply to the top of the Beacon. Few ever came to see them as they were well removed from the main part of the reserve and could only be accessed by a very hazardous descent from the top. For the ten years I lived in Ditchling they were a treasured secret known just to myself and the Trust.

I expected such a well known beauty spot as Cleeve Hill to be popular on a day such as this but was surprised to find only one other car parked at the top. I was entirely alone as I took the track out onto the steep grassland slope. The joy and benefit of being outdoors on a day such as this, surrounded by a wealth of grassland flowers and particularly orchids in some abundance was not to be underestimated.

Musk Orchids are I suppose an enthusiasts orchid and lack the spectacular form and colourful presence of many of our other wild orchid species. They are yellowish green, very small, tiny even and rarely grow much above six inches, often a lot shorter, dwarfed by the limestone grasses and flowers. They are a hidden, honey scented gem, difficult to spot, that brings a delight way out of proportion to their size when they are discovered.

My task at finding them was made far easier with directions courtesy of the estimable Duncan D so I knew where to look for them but it still took a while to get my eye in. One great anxiety was would I remember what they looked like after a gap of over thirty years!

In my search I inevitably found other orchids.The always fascinating Bee Orchid was present in good numbers, its flowers a marvel of mimickry on their strange convoluted stem and surprisingly hard to see amongst the escarpment's grasses.

More obvious were the many Common Spotted Orchids, well you could hardly miss them they were so prolific, raising their towers of pink flowers well above the grass on sturdy stalks.

Most spectacular of all were the Pyramid Orchids.Unmissably colourful, the pyramid of rich, bright pink flowers almost glows with the depth of colour, as it is held aloft amongst the waving grasses on a long and firm stalk of green. Unlike the spotted orchids each plant is spaced well apart from others of its kind, the plant appearing to prefer to grow in isolation and maintain its own space which only serves to enhance their individual beauty. However in other locations I know they can grow closer.

I walked the particular part of track I had been directed to and found the bench that was also mentioned in the directions and there were two Musk Orchids right by the track. I realised later that I must have walked past several others that were not so obvious but not to worry, the main thing was I had found two at least. One was a good height for a Musk Orchid, being almost almost five inches high. The other next to it somewhat shorter.

Once the honours had been done and the unremarkable duo photographed I could relax and enter the spirit of the  place. I had achieved all that I wanted  but was loathe  to leave such a pleasant spot. Having planned this trip and made the journey I felt I should give it more of my time as I would undoubtedly feel unfulfilled if I left now.Thirty years is a long time and the Musk Orchids deserved better of me!

I slowly walked the track again, back and fore, even descending down the steep slope a little way and as usually happens I began to find many more Musk Orchids hiding discretely in the grass. A minority were so tiny they hardly made it above ground but most were around a couple of inches high and usually in twos or threes although occasionally I found a larger grouping and in one case up to eleven were together. At times I had to lay on the warm ground to photo them from ground level they were so small.

I counted over a hundred but there were many more, of that I am sure, hidden in the grass. their pale greenish yellow flowers hardly making them conspicuous. I reflected that their inconsequential presence and unremarkable colour was probably their salvation in that they are so easily overlooked unless specifically searched for and as a consequence are left undisturbed.

I wearied of walking and taking photos in  a sun that was now very hot so sat on the bench and regarded Cheltenham far below me in the distance.

I had no desire to be in a town and it was as if I was in an alternative world up here on Cleeve Hill

But the time came when it was right to leave and I made my way back to where I had left the car beside the lane. A Tree Pipit sang from the top of a hawthorn as I made my way back up the track to the lane. Taking one last glance at a mass of spotted orchids I thought one looked  different.

My interest in British orchids is still in its infancy and I am the first to admit I have much to learn. Not quite sure what it was I took some images and back at home after checking some reference books found it was, I think, a Chalk Fragrant Orchid, possibly of the alba form. It looked very white in real life but my images show a hint of pink. Help!

At least I think it is a Chalk Fragrant but if anyone feels I may be mistaken and wishes to enlighten me please feel free to let me know.