On Monday the 12th of May a Savannah Sparrow from the USA and only the fourth to be found in Britain was discovered on Unst, the northernmost inhabited island in Shetland, so Mark and myself decided to try and see it.To cut a long tale of woe short, despite sorting out the nightmare logistics and at great expense we failed to see this uber rare bird as it was nowhere to be seen the next morning when we got there.
It had gone in the night.
Having put the disappointment of dipping the Savannah Sparrow behind us we now had two days on Shetland in prospect before catching our pre- booked Wednesday evening flight back to Aberdeen.
Personally it does not take me long to get over these inevitable twitching disappointments although others take it less well.
The weather on Shetland has been glorious for some while with full on sunshine for most of the time while we were there but still accompanied by a cold northerly wind. In sunny conditions the islands look at their absolute best and every turn in the road seems to bring yet another eye watering scene of immense beauty.
After our flight arrived at Sumburgh and the unwelcome news came through that the sparrow was nowhere to be found we mulled over what to do and for some unaccountable reason decided to punish ourselves further by fulfilling our bookings on the two ferries required to get to Unst and Skaw in particular to see exactly where the sparrow had spent all of yesterday..
Whilst viewing the burn at Skaw where the sparrow had performed so well, the weather turned for the worse and grey cloud superceded the sun. It seemed only fitting that it should do so mirroring our downbeat mood. Oh! and by the way it was the 13th if you believe in omens. Not quite Friday but bad enough.
Both Mark my twitching pal and myself were dog tired and after a disconsolate wander along a deserted Skaw beach we decided on going back to South Mainland in search of an Oriental Turtle Dove that had been intermittently showing itself at a place called Hillwell..
An Oriental Turtle Dove (OTD) is a mega in its own right but certainly did not feel like compensation for missing out on the Savannah Sparrow but it was better than nothing which was precisely what we had achieved so far on Shetland.
Oriental Turtle Dove comprises of two main sub species Streptopelia orientalis orientalis the so called Eastern Oriental Turtle Dove and S.o meena the Western Oriental Turtle Dove which include between them six named sub species.
Eastern OTD breeds in central Siberia to Japan and Korea southwards to the Himalayas from Assam to Yunnan and northern Vietnam and winters in south and south eastern Asia
Western OTD breeds in central and eastern Asia south to the Himalayas from Kashmir to central Nepal and winters in India as far south as Sri Lanka
Orientalis is much the rarer in Britain but I had seen it incredibly well when one turned up in a garden in Chipping Norton of all places in the winter of 2011 and remained there for some days, just ten minutes drive from my home in the neighbouring village of Kingham.
The bird currently at Hillwell is of the other race S.o. meena, the commoner of the two main subspecies but which I had never seen and so now I could, assuming I saw it, legitimately claim to have seen both Eastern and Western Oriental Turtle Doves..At another time and under different circumstances this would have been a reason for mild rejoicing but it did not seem like it at the time.
The dove could prove elusive but had last been reported an hour ago as frequenting fields and fences by the road that ran through Hillwell. Checking the fields we could find no sign of it but a resident birder pointed it out to us in the middle of a tilled field nearby and there it remained, hunkered down on the earth and half asleep with a Collared Dove for company.
We duly took some photos in appalling light and then called it a day and went to a friends house in Scalloway who had kindly offered to put us up for the night.
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Oriental Turtle Dove with Collared Dove
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Shattered after being awake and on the go for well over twenty four hours we were in bed and asleep by eight.Never was a bed more welcome.
Next morning with not a lot of bird news we had a lie in of sorts and a leisurely breakfast. Looking out of the window it was obvious that today was to be another of continuous sunshine.
A planned return to the dove was aborted as there was no news of it from Hillwell but a report of a Curlew Sandpiper had us heading for Island, an idyllic cove of not sand but stones and a large bank of dead seaweed that was proving irresistible to a collection of small waders consisting of Turnstones, Sanderlings and Dunlins.
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Island |
All were in summer plumage and the Dunlin in particular indulging in nuptial displays, the males chasing females across the pebbles and seaweed with spread wings and much trilling although they still had a long way to go before reaching their breeding areas.
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Turnstones |
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Dunlins |
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Sanderlings |
The sun was pleasantly warm as I sat on a rock and looked at the endless and entertaining activity of the birds feeding, displaying, bathing, preening, never still for more than a second, all biding their time before the urge came to fly north .A brace of male Eiders ah oooed their ardour to a female on the blue waters beyond the shore as ripples rather than waves gently lapped at the stones on the tideline. Dandelions, like yellow stars in the grass grew in abundance here and had attracted many Red Admiral butterflies and a migrant Painted Lady, one of many that have arrived on Shetland with this sunny weather.
We were the only two people here to savour all this natural beauty and I felt as if I was in a world transformed. All care banished.
Despite constant scanning we could not find the Curlew Sandpiper amongst the host of waders.I was sure it was there somewhere hidden in the rocks but it was of no great consequence. Just to be here on Shetland in this secluded spot on such a day as this was enough.
The tide was coming in and as it covered the stones and pebbles the birds settled to roost on the larger rocks or on banks of seaweed and a hush descended along the shore as they fell silent, ceased any activity and for a precious few moments relaxed or tucked bills into feathers to wait on the tide's turning.
I fancied a trip to Sumburgh Head to see the Puffins that breed there so we made a short car journey south and walked slowly up to the lighthouse from the car park, looking down over the huge cliffs at this the southernmost point of Shetland.It is never less than awe inspiring to look out to sea from here and on such a day as this even more so.
The Puffins were mainly in their burrows but occasionally a pair would come out to briefly stand on the short grass amongst patches of pink thrift, before flying out to a deep blue horizon.Their wariness was explained by the huge, dark brown and sinister looking form of a Great Skua or Bonxie as they are called in Shetland, patrolling the cliffs.
Far below on rocky outcrops, where the sea was forever in a turmoil of white and turquoise, beating against the unyielding rock, ranks of Guillemots stood about readying themselves for the coming breeding season while deep shaded cliff faces were randomly dotted with the white and grey forms of Fulmars sat on their nest ledges.
We were catching the last flight out of Sumburgh Airport to Aberdeen this evening and on our way to the airport passed a small lochan by the road and here, perhaps for both of us was a parting gift from Shetland in the form of a Red necked Phalarope swimming on the blue water This wader specially adapted to spend most of its time on water breeds in the Arctic regions of North America and Eurasia and winters far out to sea in tropical oceans.
Shetland and the Outer Hebrides are the southernmost limit of its breeding range with just a few pairs breeding on Fetlar and occasional pairs on other small lochs on Mainland in Shetland.
The phalarope definitely had not been here this morning when we passed going the other way. Stopping the car we clambered over a fence and sat on the boggy margin of the lochan and took some photographs. The phalarope was, as they often are, unbothered by our presence and swam about picking insects off the water's surface and then went into a vigorous washing and bathing routine before flying off.
It was a female, told by her attractive, strongly coloured plumage, mainly grey brown above with bright chestnut neck and upper breast, charcoal black face and white throat The role of the sexes as with Dotterels is reversed with the male being much less colourful and taking on the role of incubating the eggs and tending the chicks while the female goes off and mates with another male, lays more eggs and leaves him to it.
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And yes the water really was that blue! |
For these small birds to arrive on Shetland to breed involves a truly remarkable, one could say incredible journey. A individual from Fetlar was fitted with a tiny tracking device which revealed it migrated to spend the winter in the Pacific Ocean, a journey of 8000 miles. First it crossed the Atlantic via Iceland and Greenland them moved south down the eastern seaboard of North America, crossed the Caribbean and Mexico before arriving off the coast of Ecuador and Peru. It would then presumably repeat the journey in the other direction to get to Shetland. A round trip of 16000 miles.
This has led to the belief that the Scottish birds are an offshoot of the North American populations rather than the geographically nearer Scandinavian populations which winter in the Arabian Sea.
I could only look at this bird today and marvel.
I have always wanted to see a Red necked Phalarope in summer plumage and in its native habitat.I have seen them in breeding plumage in my own county of Oxfordshire as they briefly stopped to rest on their way north but always in prosaic surroundings. To see one on the blue waters of a small and remote moorland lochan, possibly just completing its epic journey was for me the ultimate experience and filled me with utmost joy.
Shetland never fails.